Riding the Edge

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Sunrise at Chisos Basin was everything I could have hoped for. Since you are down in the crown of the basin, the sun rises in grades of light, first like someone turning up the reostat slowly, then like a movie projector showing morning on the inside of the western walls of the basin, then like a laser show over the the tops of the eastern walls.  Since the sun heats everything to the east of the basin rapidly before the basin has a chance to catch up, moisture from the evening dew tries to escape and can’t — some sort of temperature inversion, or dew point thing, or something.  The result is that within an hour or so of sunrise, a blanket of fog grabs the basin and the result is otherworldly.  This is how to start a day on the edge.

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A New Ride on the Edge

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Sometimes you get emotionally attached to objects.  Against all reason, a tool, or a thing you use regularly becomes so much a part of you, you begin to think about it as you.  It has been that way for me with my 2008 FJ Cruiser.  From early trips with my son to National Parks, to various hunting trips across the country, it was my home, my transportation and, on occasion, my savior.  We carefully considered each modification, some we built, some we bought. It never ever let us down.  After 113,000 miles or so, I can honestly say there wasn’t anything about it I would change.  It was my ride for the first leg of my trip around the edge.  And it is gone.

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Back from the Edge

I dropped Foster at the airport in San Antonio, returned my day pack to the passenger seat so it wouldn’t look so empty and headed in as straight a line as Eisenhower could order, back to Atlanta. From San Antonio to Atlanta is about 16 hours via I-10, to I-65, to I-85.  One thing about the great civil defense interstate highway system, it can move volumes of people and goods a long way quickly.  What it can’t do is give you any sense of connection to anything other than concrete.

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Sharing the edge

Voices.  Its’s 2:10 am under a full moon on the edge of the Rio Grande in a tent parked on a bluff overlooking the green delta about 15 miles east of  the southwest entrance to Big Bend National Park and I hear voices.  They are not mine, not my son’s and they are not in my head.  The age old debate about whether humans have instinct falls into tiny pieces as I go from deep sleep to instant awareness and strain to separate the sound of rushing water from whatever – I still think it is voices – triggered my consciousness.  I nudge Foster, tell him to stay quiet, that I hear something.  He raises up, mumbles something, and promptly goes back to sleep.

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Shall We Gather at the Edge

Overnight at Roy’s Peak the temperature dropped below freezing and the high desert air was as clear and fragile as glass. At dawn, the old homestead and broken windmill were still there, silent reminders that the morning chill for us was but a whisper of the morning chills they had seen. After a hot breakfast, good coffee and a quick break of camp, we were off, along with the sun, to chase the western side of the park – around the Chisos Basin, down through the Burro Mesa and finally, to the edge of the Rio Grande where we would make camp. Continue reading “Shall We Gather at the Edge”

Rejuvenation on the edge

We awoke to a clear cold dawn in the moon shadow of Casa Grande and made coffee and stamped our feet and watched the thin aqua line on the eastern horizon grow and color the early morning. Our plan today is to continue Glenn Springs Road to the south, finally arriving at the Rio Grande, visit the mystical hot springs and Boquillas Canyon, before returning north through the eastern section of the park on the Old Ore Road with the Sierra Del Carmen Mountains to our east and the ever present Chisos to our west, and the high desert underneath us.

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